When: 14.6.09 – 22.6.09
Where: Ohrid – Durres – Tirana – Berat – Gjirokaster – Saranda – Corfu – Tirana
After several gone wrong attempts to hitch a ride (one of which was on a trio of motorcycles), we crossed the border without problems (despite nites of stress) and ran into this energetic Macedonian of the name of Sadet. Fueled on Red Bull and carried loyally by his trusty steed, an Alfa Romeo, he zipped us (and one Albanian elder) through army practice rounds all the way to the seaside port of Durres, only to be hindered (in body, not in spirit, by no means) by the LONGEST TRAFFIC JAM EVAR. Especially as I had to use the toilet the entire time. Next followed the randomest 24 hours ever. Checked out his brick-making factory, then assisted in the manufacture of bricks (clay and sun-dried), walked with gelato on the beach, explored a closing carnival, ate dinner by the sea (pizza), drove to Tirana, drove back to Durres to spend a night at a hotel, then spent morning rowing in the Adriatic sea in a pedal-boat. Yeah. So random.
So later we met up with our surfer pal, Sinty, the cute and lovely Latvian living in Albania for some reason? And a fellow couchsurfer staying on her couch, Jeremy from Canada. Spent the next 2 nights exploring the city of Tirana, drinking, socializing, walking around, checking out flea markets. Jeremy had come from 3 weeks in Bosnia, so he had a lot of wartime stories.
Next wandered to Berat, brown-roofed old capital topped with a beautiful fortress still inhabited. Stayed at a cool, beautiful hostel owned by a funny British dude, Scott. Checked out a local Tekke, a Sufi mosque, with the local historian, Mario. We later met Scott, Mario, and a French Canadian dude named Ulysses by the south ocean, in Saranda. Before that, however, took a bus to Gjirokaster, where sits the COOLEST CASTLE EVAR! in the midst of this abandoned old fort stands two long, long rows of CANNONS from the 20th century. Italian, German, Greek, from the world wars! Also a freaking American PLANE said to have malfunctioned during its spies on communist Albania and crash landed in the area. Naturally, we could climb in all of these artifacts (it’s Albania!) and take pictures. HAHA awesome. Also ran into this random tour guide / dive instructor Polish dude named Sebastie~n. He knew so much about world war artifacts, it was like having a local tour guide! Also a funny nasal voice.
ANYWAY so next we found this funny hostel on top of the 8th floor in the beach town of Saranda, owned by an Irish lady named Annette. Hostel name of Hairy Lemon. Day on the beach, night wandering around clubs, then off to Corfu on a random whim!!
CORFU! This place would be paradise if it weren’t that the tourists outnumber the Greeks 10 to 1. Amazing food, sights, beaches, caves, foliage, architecture… breathtaking. We rented a motorbike and explored the north part of the island for a day. Got caught wandering around the Las Vegas of Corfu (bars, lights, glamor in Sidara) without a place to stay, due to a closed hostel, but we chanced upon some kind Greek bartenders who found a cheap place for us at three in the morning!
Oh yeah, and the best part? It happened to be Euro Music Day on Sunday, and we sat cruising in the grass with some wine and cheese listening to live bands. Ever in search of the cheap lodge, we asked a random street organizer for the music where one could be found. Answer? His boat of course, parked on the dock. He was a pirate / hippie / incredibly gentle French guy of the name of Rudolf. We hung around, helped the organizers to sell a bit, danced with some friends of his, a beautiful Mexican-British girl named Sofia and a Scottish Captain Jack Sparrow. Later we all slept the night in Rudolf’s boat, in the middle of the electric storm off the island. Was the best, randomest day. This whole week has been the best, randomest week ever!
Reasons WHY Albania is the randomest country ever:
fascination with spiral staircases
deadly elections (PD leader got blown up in his car on thursday)
hills, hills, hills
nicest people ever
trash cans on the bus (for puking)
badass old german and hungarian motorcyclists
duck farms
communistic habits (what do you mean no free beer after work?)
colorful commie buildings
teddy bears hanging from houses
furgons, small vans for public transport
yoghurt- and whipped cream-flavored gelato
hitchhiking is unheard of here
mafia!
and of course see above travelogues
And, in the words of our lovely host Sinty, “only crazy people travel in Albania.”
Hi– you popped up on my google alert for Albania– I’m following it because I’ll be going there in September for a few weeks. Loved your post!
Kristin Ohlson
And, in the words of our lovely host Sinty, “only crazy people travel in Albania.”
YES, YES, YES …are you two nuts?!!!
I love you, but my nails are almost gone! Yee Gads, nothing like pushing your Mom’s buttons.
I haven’t shared too much of the details since you left Maroc with your older brothers and uncles. I’m afraid they just wouldn’t understand. AND they already are upset that I ‘LET’ you go so far away to Maroc, as IF I could tell you NOT to go!! I fear they continue to see the 13 yr old not the soon to be 22 yr old! I just read a scary book on the sex slavery market and MAFIA people, especially the Eastern Europeans and Russians so that DID not make my day.
Continue on your wild adventure but STAY SAFE, BE OBSERVANT AND ACT SMART!!! You are precious to us all and we love you super bunches. Stay away from the swarms of colds, flus and bugs that seem to be pervasive this year. Keep sugar intake down and fish intake up!!
AND, what are you doing in Corfu?! I thought that was one of our places to go??? Leave me some place to enjoy uniquely with you??
Love you Angelface, Mommy